Preventing Frozen Pipes
Frozen pipes are one of the more preventable winter problems in a house. Learn which pipes are at risk, what to do in fall, and how to respond if one freezes.
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The equipment that heats and cools your home works hard and mostly out of sight. A little routine care helps it run the way it should, and knowing the warning signs tells you when it’s time to call a licensed technician.
Heating and cooling equipment has a habit of quitting on the hottest afternoon or the coldest night, because that’s when it works hardest. Some of those breakdowns trace back to simple things: a filter nobody changed, an outdoor unit packed with cottonwood fluff, a drain line full of slime. You can handle much of that routine care with nothing more than a flashlight and a calendar.
This guide covers what a homeowner can safely do, what a seasonal tune-up usually includes, and the symptoms that tell you to put down the flashlight and phone a pro. Anything involving gas, refrigerant or the wiring inside the equipment is licensed work, and the rules for it differ from one state and city to the next.
Step 1 of 8
Start by figuring out what’s in your house. Common setups include a gas or electric furnace paired with a central air conditioner, a heat pump that handles both heating and cooling, a boiler with radiators, or ductless units mounted high on a wall. Each has its own care routine. Look for the data plate on the indoor and outdoor units and note the model, serial number and fuel type. The build date is often hidden inside the serial number; the maker’s documentation or a technician can translate it. Keep the manual, or download a copy, and store it with your home records.
Some homes keep the filter in a slot next to the furnace, others behind a big grille on a hallway wall or ceiling, and a few use both. Check every spot.
Write down whether your thermostat is manual, programmable or connected to your home network. It affects how you schedule temperatures and what a technician may ask about.
Boxes, laundry and paint cans don’t belong beside a furnace or air handler. Give the equipment room to breathe and give a technician room to work.
Step 2 of 8
The filter is the easiest thing you can do for your system, and the easiest to forget. A clogged filter makes the blower work harder, can reduce airflow across the coil and lets dust settle where it shouldn’t. Check it monthly at first. Tilt it toward a window or a lamp; when the pleats look gray and light barely passes through, swap it out. Houses with pets, allergies, remodeling dust or long heating and cooling seasons often need changes more often. Jot the install date on the new filter’s cardboard frame so next month’s check isn’t a guess.
Every filter has an arrow printed on the frame. Point it toward the furnace or air handler, away from the return duct it pulls air from.
The size is printed on the frame of the old filter. A filter that’s too small lets air sneak around the edges and skip filtering entirely.
Filters with higher efficiency ratings trap finer particles but can restrict airflow on some systems. Ask a technician what your equipment can handle before you switch.
Step 3 of 8
Your air conditioner or heat pump has an outdoor unit that needs open space to move heat. Keep shrubs trimmed back, rake leaves away from the base and never stack firewood or bins against it. A couple of feet of clearance on every side is a common rule of thumb, though your manual may ask for more. With the system switched off at the thermostat, you can gently rinse dust and cottonwood off the fins with a garden hose. Skip the pressure washer, which can flatten the thin metal fins. In winter, keep snow and ice from burying a heat pump.
An outdoor unit resting on a sinking pad can strain its refrigerant lines. If the pad tilts noticeably, mention it at your next tune-up.
Some manufacturers advise against wrapping an outdoor unit in winter, since trapped moisture invites rust and rodents. Follow the manual for your specific model.

Step 4 of 8
Air conditioners and high efficiency furnaces pull water out of the air, and that water has to go somewhere. Find the small pipe leaving the indoor unit and follow it to a floor drain, a pump or the outside. If you see standing water in the drain pan or a damp spot under the unit, the line may be clogged. Some manuals describe a simple way to flush the line; follow those steps only if they’re written for your equipment. Inside the house, keep supply and return vents open and clear of furniture and rugs, and vacuum dust off the grilles now and then.
Shutting vents in unused rooms can raise pressure in the ducts and reduce airflow. Ask a technician before closing off parts of the house.
If your system uses a condensate pump, get to know its normal hum. A pump that runs nonstop or stays silent while water pools needs attention.
Step 5 of 8
Steady settings are easier on equipment than big swings. If you use a schedule, keep the changes moderate, especially with a heat pump, because a large jump in temperature can call on backup electric heat. Replace thermostat batteries when the low battery signal appears or once a year, whichever comes first. Keep lamps, televisions and direct sun away from the thermostat, since extra heat nearby fools it. If rooms feel uneven, note which ones and at what time of day. That record is far more useful to a technician than a general complaint that the house never feels right.
Many heat pump thermostats show when auxiliary or emergency heat is running. If it stays on during mild weather, have a technician check the system.
Step 6 of 8
Homeowner care keeps the basics in order. A tune-up covers what you can’t safely reach. Schedule cooling service in spring and heating service in fall, before technicians are booked solid. A typical visit may include checking electrical connections and controls, measuring temperatures and airflow, cleaning or inspecting coils, testing safety switches and, for fuel-burning equipment, inspecting burners, the flue and the heat exchanger. On a cooling visit, a certified technician may also check the refrigerant charge. Checklists differ between companies, so ask what’s included before the visit.
A reputable company should be able to tell you what the visit covers. Compare that list with what your equipment manual recommends.
Ask for a written summary of what was checked, any readings taken and any repairs suggested, and keep it in your home log for next season.
If a technician recommends a major repair, ask to see the problem, get the quote in writing and take time for a second opinion when it isn’t an emergency.

Step 7 of 8
Your system will often hint at trouble before it quits. Pay attention when something changes: a new noise, a new smell, rooms that won’t reach the set temperature, or a system that turns on and off every few minutes. A faint dusty smell on the first cold morning of fall is common as the burners heat up, but it should fade quickly. A persistent burning, electrical or chemical smell should not. Rising energy bills with no change in weather or habits can also point to a problem. When in doubt, turn the system off and call a licensed technician.
Frost or ice on the copper lines or the indoor coil usually signals an airflow or refrigerant problem. Turn cooling off and call for service.
A system that starts and stops repeatedly within a few minutes wears parts quickly. It can come from a dirty filter, a thermostat issue or something more serious.
Puddles near the indoor unit, a sweating duct or water stains on a ceiling below an attic air handler all deserve a quick call to a pro.
Sharp mechanical noises often mean a motor, belt or fan is in trouble. Running the system anyway can turn a small repair into a bigger one.
Step 8 of 8
Some problems aren’t a scheduling question. Utilities add an odor to natural gas that many people compare to rotten eggs. If you notice it, move everyone outdoors, then phone your gas company or emergency services once you’re well away from the house. Don’t use light switches, phones or anything that could spark while you’re still indoors. If a carbon monoxide alarm sounds, get everyone into fresh air and call emergency services. Install carbon monoxide alarms as the manufacturer directs, typically near sleeping areas and on each level of the home. Placement requirements are set locally and differ between states and cities, so look up the rules where you live.
Tick items off as you go. Nothing is saved or sent anywhere.
It depends on the filter and the house. Many standard one-inch filters need changing every one to three months, while thicker media filters can go longer. Pets, allergies, remodeling dust and heavy use all shorten that window. Check yours monthly for the first year, and let what you see, along with the equipment manual, set your schedule.
Many equipment manufacturers recommend regular professional maintenance, and some warranties mention it, so check your paperwork. A tune-up gives a technician the chance to spot worn parts, dirty coils or drain problems before they cause a breakdown. It won’t make an old system new, but it helps you plan repairs on your schedule rather than the weather’s.
There’s no single rule. Age, repair cost, how well the system keeps the house comfortable and whether parts are still available all matter. Ask a licensed contractor to explain the options in writing, and consider a second opinion on large jobs. Local codes and permit rules for replacements are set by your state and city, so ask the contractor which ones apply to you.
No. Handling refrigerant requires specific certification, and a system that’s low on refrigerant usually has a leak that needs finding and repair, not just a top-off. If your air conditioner runs but doesn’t cool, check the filter and the thermostat settings first, then call a licensed technician to diagnose the rest.
Heating and cooling care is mostly habit: a filter on schedule, a clear outdoor unit, a tune-up before the season turns and a sharp eye for the warning signs. None of it takes long, and it gives you a better read on your equipment when you talk with a technician. HomeIsSecure writes homeowner guides such as this one to explain the basics, not to replace professional advice. For anything involving gas, refrigerant or electrical parts, call a licensed pro in your area.
The HomeIsSecure editors
Frozen pipes are one of the more preventable winter problems in a house. Learn which pipes are at risk, what to do in fall, and how to respond if one freezes.
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